
|
|
Thread, Findings & Equipment |
While beads are the main ingredients of
the necklace or bracelet, other materials, such as thread and clasps are
very important; additionally, there are a variety of tools that you will
find extremely helpful, and good working environment is essential. This
chapter will describe the different threading materials that can be used;
some pre-fabricated items that will provide the professional touch and
others that will make jewelry more comfortable to wear, and easy to put on
and take off. It will also cover equipment that will make stringing easier,
and finally, some thoughts regarding the work area.
Threading Materials
The selection of thread for stringing is nearly as varied as the beads
themselves, and comes in a wide assortment of materials, weights and
thicknesses. Stringing cord is manufactured with a very tight twist that
provides the material with surprising strength and durability, and is
sometimes coated for additional protection. While it is possible this type
of thread is designed for stitching through fabric, and could not bear the
heavy weight of the beads; also, it would be cut through very quickly
against the edges of the holes in the beads.
Stringing thread can be obtained on cards with needles attached, or on
spools. The thread on cards ranges through all of the commonly used
materials, weights and colours, and are approximately 75" in length,
sufficient for a number of necklaces or bracelets, depending on the length
of the strands and whether or not the thread is doubled. Alternatively, you
can purchase thread by the spool and separate packets of needles. This
approach is the more economical when large quantities are to be strung.
The most important qualities to look for when selecting thread are that the
threat will pass through the smallest borehole of the beads, and that it is
strong enough to support the weight of the finished strand. The needles
designed to be used in the stringing of beads are very different from those
used for home sewing. A stringing needle is made from very thin wire that
enables the needles to pass through very small holes, and it is flexible
enough to pass between beads.
The following tables describe which stringing material is best used for
various beads, and the types, weights and colors of threads that are
commonly available.
Applications of Stringing Material
| Pearls |
Silk thread |
| Beads with smooth drillholes (amber, coral, etc.)
|
Silk, polyester or nylon |
| Beads with abrasive drillholes |
Polyester or nylon |
| Beads that are metallic, large or have large
drillholes |
Tiger Tail or foxtail |
| Ropes or Woven Necklaces |
Nylon |
Findings
The term 'findings' is used throughout the jewelry industry to collectively
describe a variety of prefabricated items such as jump rings, bead tips,
French bouillon, and clasps. These items are useful and necessary for the
ease and comfort of the wearer in putting on and removing, they provide the
means of connecting strands, and they add a touch of quality to your design.
Chapter Four provides instructions in the use of the most common findings.
Bead Tips
Also called 'endings' bead tips are used at the end of a strand to conceal
a knot, and to connect the strand to the clasp. They are available in small
and large sizes; the size that is to be used is determined by the size of
the knot that is to be concealed.
Bell Caps
These look just like small bells, with a loop at the top, and they are
frequently in a delicate filigree design. Bell caps are commonly used when a
fringe of beads, such as a tassle, is incorporated into the design, and the
cap is an attractive way to collect and to conceal the ends of the fringe
that is being attached.
French Bouillon
Bouillon (or wise) is a very thin wire that has been tightly coiled so that
it can be threaded (similar to stringing a bead), and is generally used as a
connector, either between groups of beads, or between the strand and the
clasp. Bouillon is made of fine silver wire that has been copper plated and
dipped in gold. It is then coiled thousands of times into a hollow flexible
tubing. It is available in different weights, and is frequently sold by the
yard, although shorter lengths are available.
Bouillon provides a neat, professional finish, and because it does not
tarnish, this wire is preferred by many professionals.
Head Pins
The head pin is a length of wire with a flat at one end. It is used to
string a bead, or several beads, then connect to the strand by making a loop
at the open end.
Jump Rings
Jump rings serve as connectors either between beads alone, or as a link
between the bead tip and the clasp. The jump ring is simply a small circle
of wire with a slit which allows it to be opened for connecting. They come
in different sizes, depending on the application.
Clasps
Clasps do just-clasp of strands together. As with the beads they are
connecting, clasps come in a wide variety of sizes, and styles. Some clasps
connect both ends of a single strand, some connect several strands
individually, while others can accommodate a wide rope of several strands
together. Generally, the clasp has one or more small loops on either side
for attaching to a single strand per loop. Clasps can be simple or very
ornate, all metal or covered with stones. Some clasps are made so that they
are not seen as a clasp, but as part of the overall design.